Maria Grazia Chiuri Is Bringing Woman Power to Dior
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Tulle and fringe dress, brief, $930; choker, necklace, bracelets, and rings (worn throughout); calfskin boots, $2,400; all, Dior, at Dior boutiques nationwide.Graciela Iturbide – Continue Reading BelowOne more way Maria Grazia Chiuri is bringing woman power to the house of Dior? By teaming up with female artists. In these pages, she packs up her cruise collection and heads to Oaxaca to work with Mexican photographer and art-world legend Graciela Iturbide.A surrealist black-and-white image of a woman wearing a crown of iguanas was what first snagged on Maria Grazia Chiuri?s consciousness. When she saw it, ?I was fascinated,? she remembers, and she immediately wanted to know more about its photographer, Graciela Iturbide. That curiosity ultimately resulted in the Dior artistic director heading from her Paris home base to Iturbide?s native Mexico?her first cruise collection in tow?for this shoot in Oaxaca.Mexico City?based Iturbide, 75, is known for her images of strong, somewhat feral women in nature?notably her portraits of the Juchit?n people, a matriarchal tribe in Oaxaca (indeed, Nuestra Se?ora de Las Iguanas??Our Lady of the Iguanas??came from that series). Her female-centric oeuvre also includes a photo series set in Frida Kahlo?s bathtub, where the painter has often depicted herself, and Cholas, which followed young Mexican American women living in East L.A. The 53-year-old Chiuri is, of course, the first-ever female artistic director of Dior?the woman who brought us the hit ?We Should All Be Feminists? T-shirt and, for cruise, a set of mystical embroideries inspired by a female tarot-card-making duo. Since taking her post last year, the Rome-born designer has been eager, she says, to work with female artists from all corners of the globe. ?I think it?s important to look around because sometimes the risk, when you work in fashion, is that you are closing your world,? she says. ?If we are to speak about femininity, we have to speak about all the women around the world.? – Continue Reading BelowEmbroidered-tulle raffia dress, $12,000, cotton shorts, $1,200, belt, all, Dior, call 800-929-DIOR.Graciela IturbideThe two women had never met, but the designer says that she and Iturbide connected on set as instantly as Chiuri had latched onto that initial image. ?Graciela is a really sensitive person?you can feel her fragility. She?s strong and fragile at the same time,? Chiuri says. The Western-influenced cruise collection, which Chiuri had shown in Cala- basas, California, in May, drew on Georgia O?Keeffe as a muse?and so was ideally suited to Iturbide?s roughhewn, natural-woman style. – Continue Reading Below – Continue Reading BelowAnd the shoot itself had a similarly naturalistic vibe. Explains Iturbide, ?Maria Grazia told me immediately that I could do whatever I wanted. She asked me to take my photographs the way I usually do, not to do something ?fashion.??Intarsia knit jacket, $3,100, silk organza and lace dress, $8,200, ankle boots canada goose sale womens , $1,700, all, Dior, at Dior boutiques nationwide,Graciela Iturbide – Continue Reading BelowChiuri, a photography aficionado prone to poring over documentary images in National Geographic, liked working outside the strictures of the typical fashion shoot. ?When you work with this kind of photographer www.st-edwards-cam.org.uk , you have to give her freedom. I do not want to impose anything; I really want her point of view,? she says. ?There was no program that you had to make eight pictures in one day. It was a completely different mood.? Chiuri, Iturbide, and model Danielle Ellsworth wandered to and from locations steeped in the local culture: a limestone factory, a private hacienda, a mescal distillery where a white horse wandered serendipitously into the shot. ?I took advantage of all the coincidences of things that happened,? Iturbide says. At one point, an elderly woman who lived on a neighboring plot and spoke only an ancient dialect was coaxed into a photograph. ?You feel that [Iturbide] has a conversation? with her subjects, Chiuri notes. ?She doesn?t pose them.? Embroidered-tulle dress, $14,500, bra, $1,150, brief, $930, belt, calfskin boots, $2,400, all, Dior.Graciela Iturbide – Continue Reading Below – Continue Reading BelowIturbide, who shoots only on film and does not retouch images, has an old-school manner of working that the designer, used to the headlong pace of fashion, came to appreciate. ?You need time to make a picture,? Chiuri says. ?I believe that now when everything is fast, everybody can be a photographer in some ways, with a phone! We want something to come back where you feel more of a human touch.? ?V?ronique HylandCoat, $8,600, tulle and fringe dress, $8,500, belt, calfskin sandals, $1,190, all, Dior, call 800-929-DIOR.Graciela Iturbide – Continue Reading BelowHair and Makeup by Peter Corte?s; Casting by Paul Brickman for Zan Casting; Model: Danielle Ellsworth at the Society; Produced by Canopia and Diagonal Producciones; Fashion Assistant: Brenda Miranda; Special Thanks to La Calera in the city of Oaxaca and Destileri?a Los Danzantes in Santiago Matatla?n, Oaxaca This article originally appears in the December 2017 issue of ELLE.GET THE LATEST ISSUE OF ELLE
Maria Grazia Chiuri Is Bringing Woman Power to Dior
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